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Postby bill » Mon Jan 10, 2005 1:49 pm

got a nice '96 Integra I could sell ya, cheap!

New radiator, new rotors on the front, new ceramic pads on the front and back. Only 80k miles! Special edition w/ moon roof, automatic, alloy rims and leather interior!

JK, I love my little car, sorry! /evil cackle
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Postby Oakenblade » Mon Jan 10, 2005 1:53 pm

'76 Nova 4-Sale
Bastard car...it's good if you got the time to take care of it and maintain it.
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Postby Teennin » Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:04 pm

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Car

Postby Goofydoofy » Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:29 pm

My fuel pressure something is leaking gas all over my engine. Always a good time there. Was waiting for the engine to go up in flames as I drove it to the garage. 84 Audi 4000S. Paid 1k for it. Great condition. Can't complain. Just funny how everything has been going wrong each week for the last four weeks.
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yuck

Postby bill » Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:41 pm

damn goof. That's shittay =(

Teen, damn i have a softspot for mustangs....make me wish I had 7k to plunk down.
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Low Down

Postby Goofydoofy » Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:30 pm

Here is the deal...Audi fucks me. Fun.

The tube that connects to the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator is broken. Because of that, gas leaks out of the regulator hose at the top of the engine which is a release due to the fact there is no vacuum going to the regulator.

What does all this mean? It means all I need is the metal tubing that is used for the vacuum to be replaced. It is a special tube that has check valves on it, not just a straight tube. Well, get it then? Yea, but you can ONLY get it from AUDI. Anybody who has dealt with dealer parts knows that the dealer will mark up any and all parts 300%.

Well, the tube can't be more then a few bucks, take the mark up? Ya, in theory. But Audi will only sell that tube with the whole fuel pressure regulator assembly. So I need a whole assembly for just a tube. Total reaming in the ass: $350.

Good times. $350 for a $35 item. $650 for what should have came out to $400 worth of computer parts. $200 for a $50 hooker. And $200 for a $100 eight ball. I'm just getting the shaft money wise left and right lately.
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Postby fendeesha » Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:42 pm

I need a new car! /sob... :cry
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Postby Bilnick » Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:40 pm

Learn to do some of your auto maintenance yourself, Fen. A brake job is one of the easiest things to replace on a car. Disc brakes especially. Often it is as simple as taking off the wheel and 2 bolts for the caliper. The pads just snap in in most cases. Most rotors slip over the hub and only cost 6-8$ each to turn. (New rotors are 15-20$ for US brands) A new set of pads is $15-$25. In nearly 20 years of driving I have had a car into the shop 3 times. One was for crash repair. Changing your own oil and air filter is another way to save money.

I have never heard of a head gasket "getting ready to blow". It is either good or it isn't. If your head gasket is blown it is likely that you will see billowy white smoke at your tailpipe, even when the car has heated up. That is the engine burning the coolant that is leaking into the cylinders. If you can't see smoke, a simple compression test generally can reveal whether a head gasket is blown or not.

Hoses and radiators are easy to replace as well. Hoses have a band clamp on each end. Loosen it, and remove the hose. Put the band clamps on the new hose if they are still good and replace. If the old hoses are hard to get off, use a utility knife and cut them off since you won't be re-using them anyway. Don't forget to drain the coolant before you do this, of course. Some new cars have special coolant filling procedures, look into that too before you try any of this stuff yourself.

Car maintenance and repair is not as daunting as it sounds. Start small by changing your own oil or replacing brakes. As you gain confidence and skill try harder repairs. Before you know it you will be able to tear an engine down, no problem.
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Postby Bilnick » Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:41 pm

Not a bad looking Mustang, Teennin. If only it had a V8 and a manual trans..........
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Repairs

Postby Goofydoofy » Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:49 pm

The manual stuff if fairly easy. Not always. Can't get at the part. Wrong tool to get the angle. Can't pull the caliper springs to the hook. Need to bleed the brakes. It is easy for the people who know, but not for the people who don't. Kinda like building a house or a computer. It is easy for those who know how to do it and have the needed tools. For the others, its not easy.

Alot of it is easy to learn, but books aren't ideal for such learning. This is more a hands on thing to learn.

When you get to the electrical shit, computers and codes get involved. Sensors in the center of the motor, etc. Not as easy as it sounds. Old cars are MUCH easier to work on then new cars.
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Postby Bilnick » Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:19 pm

I agree with you on the computer system of a car, Goof, you need specalized code readers or laptop interface, etc. But changing the oil on a car is as easy today as it was 20 years ago. Same with brake jobs. In fact I would argue that it is easier today since most cars have four wheel disc brakes now, very simple. I have never had an electrical or computer problem on any car I have ever had, except for bad alternators. Today's cars are really no harder to work on than cars of 30 years ago. There may be less room to work, but todays cars have fewer hoses and wires than cars did in the 80's. Shop manuals or Chilton manuals are very helpful with auto repairs.

The best way to learn auto repair is by doing it. The first car I ever had, I bought for 50$. The guy I bought it from had completely disassembled the engine, was moving, and needed the car hauled away. I had a set of shop manuals for the car and was able to reassemble the engine fairly easily.

I would not reccommend that someone replace a head gasket on thier first ever car repair. Start simple. Change your own oil. Change your own brakes. If you can change the video card on your PC, you can do those simple repairs on a car.
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Postby fendeesha » Mon Jan 10, 2005 8:45 pm

LOL, I don't even know what a video card looks like! And as to car repairs, yes, given the right tools, parts, manuals, and enough untinterupted time, I COULD theoretically do most of those things, but I would end up spending more on my screw ups than I would to just get them fixed! I wish I knew some one close who knew about such things who could help me out! Anyone near Riverside, CA perhaps? Or an extra car you want to sell cheap cheap? LOL
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hehe

Postby bill » Wed Jan 12, 2005 10:39 am

well, as for your hose goof.....junkyards? I would check around. You could snag that tube from an old audi and call it a day.

If they have that sorta thing near ya. I don't know what kinda car graveyards they got in your end of the desert.

As for tools needed, CHILTON. Get the chilton manual for your cars if you don't already folks, they tell you exactly which tools you will ever need to work on your cars and I would be dead in the water without mine.
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over 137gb or Sata

Postby primalwise » Tue Jan 25, 2005 1:33 pm

Likewise i had problems when installing a 200mb sata drive. The system acted like it had a bad memory chip or a failing drive (ie data corruption).

This can happen because either it is a Sata Drive or over 137GB and you dont have the proper service pack installed to handle the disk structure for disks that large (ie 48bit rather than 24). For Xp thats SP1.

Make sure of all the following.

1) power supply rates at HIGHER than 18amps, especially if running a amd cpu. otherwise you will likely get voltage drops that cause weird errors.

2) latest Bios installed. If a sata drive, you should get the option of using it as a raid scsi, or a ide drive in bios setup. Your choice, ide is easier to deal with as its just another drive.

3) Latest system (MB) drivers from motherboard manufactorer (or chipset maker if the mb manufactor is very very slow to keep up, AKA SOYO! grrr, don't get me started on them lol.) - These are needed to make sure your system does not power off before the drive cache is finished writing as xp is prone to do in acpi mode. (alternatively you can press f5 at install startup to pick a HAL install ove a acpi, you get full control of your interrupts this way, but fewer of them :< )

I recommend doing all of this BEFORE attaching a sata drive, you can always clone it over and switch afterwards if you really want it as ye startup drive.

Hopefully this will help someone.
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Postby fendeesha » Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:39 pm

LOL, had to read that twice, I thought you said SATAN drive! ROFL, I feel like mine is a satan drive sometimes...
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